Meet the Tuner's Car!
What kind of car does the one offering these tips and tuning service have? See the mods and necessary tuning done for an example of what you can do!
My Camaro Z28
This tuning tips and service website ultimately came to be because of owning my own LT1 equipped car since the year 2000: a six-speed 1995 Chevy Camaro Z28. Over the years, I've come to appreciate its power, handling, and reliability. It even gets good gas mileage on the highway!
This page is to show you how my tips on this website come directly from personal experience, and just to showcase another LT1 car for those considering buying one used.
From the Factory
- Sebring Silver Exterior
- Black Roof and Side Mirrors
- Charcoal/Light Gray Two-Tone Cloth Interior
- Borg Warner T-56 Six-Speed Manual Transmission
- 3.42:1 Differential Gear Ratio
- Air Conditioning
Oil Cooler (Deleted for header install)
- 140 Amp Alternator
- Cruise Control
- Keyless Entry
- Power Windows
- Power Locks
- Power Driver's Seat
Below is a detailed list of mods done to the car, including any relevant part numbers.
- Forged 383ci
- 4.030" Overbore
- Eagle Forged 3.75" Crank
- Eagle Forged H-Beam 6" Rods
- JE SRP Forged Pistons - Single Valve Relief
- Canton Road Racing Oil Pan (6 qt)
- Standard Volume/High Pressure Oil Pump
- Lunati Camshaft: 243/251 duration (@ 0.050"), 110 LSA, 0.597"/0.603" valve lift
- Comp-Cam Pro Racing Lifters
- Comp-Cam Pro Magnum 1.6RR @ 1/6 turn past zero lash
- 42# Lucas/Delphi 01D030B
- FIC 340 LPH Fuel Pump
- Racetronix Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit
- 48.5 psi fuel pressure (over-powered stock regulator)
- Converting over to 100% E85 fuel
- AutoZone Duralast Gold Battery
- GM LT4 Knock Module (16214681)
- NGK TR6 spark plugs (gapped at 0.035")
- Accel 300+ Race 8.8mm spark plug wires
- Accel SuperCoil (ACC-140011)
- Delphi Opti-Spark
- Pro 5.0 Shifter (82-T56) w/ shortened stick
- McLeod Street Twin Clutch Setup
- Dual-Mass Aluminum Flywheel
- Custom Twin Discs
- Custom Pressure Plate
- Custom Throw-out Bearing
- Custom Aluminum Master Cylinder (139001)
- GM Roller Pilot Bearing (14061685)
- Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 Brake (Clutch) Fluid (059)
- Honda Synthetic ZL-1 ATF (08206-9001)
- GM 3" Aluminum LS1 Driveshaft (12564004)
- Energy Suspension Polyurethane Transmission Mount (Black, 3-1108)
- Energy Suspension Polyurethane Torque Arm Bushing (Black, 3-1111)
- Energy Suspension Polyurethane Engine Mounts (ENS-3-1127Y, ENS-3-1116Y)
- AutoMeter Wideband Gauge (ATM-3878)
- AutoMeter Electric Fuel Pressure Gauge (ATM-3363)
- AutoMeter Electric N2O Pressure Gauge (ATM-3374)
- AutoMeter Electric Oil Temperature Gauge (ATM-3347)
- HiFiMeDIY Sabre USB DAC Digital to Analog Audio Converter 96khz/24bit ES9023+TE7022 (Cell Phone as Head-Unit)
- Audio Control OVERDRIVE PLUS Line Driver
- Audison SRX4 4-channel amp
- Front: MB-Quart DSD-216
- Rear: Focal Utopia 6W woofers & TNK tweeters
- Xtant 102M mono amp
- Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4.V2 - Baffle Mounted (free air in hatch driver's cubby hole)
- Sound deadener installed fully on floor basin, rear seat back, doors and B-pillars
- Sound dampener (closed-cell foam) installed on top of deadener
- Custom Deluxe Black Carpet
- Custom Black Vinyl Headliner and Visors
- 98-02 F-Body Steering Rack
- 98-02 F-Body Steering Shaft
- Custom Power Steering Fluid Cooler - mounted on lower airdam
- Redline Power Steering Fluid
- 98-02 LS1 Front Brakes
- Brake Performance '02 F-Body Premium Cross-Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors (#CB-62055)
- Black Calipers
- Ceramic Brake Pads
- Earl's Stainless Steel Braided 5-Line Brake Kit (EAR-28A030)
- Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid (059)
- Polished & Clear-Coated MAC 7 5/8" 10-Bolt Aluminum Differential Cover
- Pre-loaded Bearings @ 10ft/lbs
- Grade 8 Bolts
- Red Line Synthetic 75W90 Differential Fluid (90-205)
- GM Synthetic Limited Slip Differential Additive (1052358)
- Slotcar Performance Adjustable Panhard Bar
- Billet aluminum
- Teflon-coated heim joints
- DMH Performance Rear Lower Control Arms
- Polished Aluminum
- Circles Cut (Weight Savings)
- Polyurethane Bushings
- Anti-Binding Brackets
- DMH Performance Rear LCA Relocation Brackets
- Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subframe Connectors (19204)
- Suspension Techniques 35mm Front & 25mm Rear Sway Bars (Gray)
- PST Graphite-Impregnated Polyurethane Bushings (Red)
- BMR Shock Tower Brace (Silver)
- Valvoline/Mobil-1 Synthetic Chassis Grease
- Konig Monsoon 17x9.5 Aluminum Wheels
- Yokohama S-drive Radials (275/40/17)
- Nitrous Express (NX) Shark Nozzle kit (100 or 150HP)
- NX Bottle Heater
- NX Remote Valve Opener
- NX Purge Kit
- Custom switch panel
Still being updated!
You didn't think I'd talk about the car without giving you info on how I've tuned it, did you? :)
Since having a "bigger" cam installed, tuning has become even more important, and requires tweaking of more tables than is normally necessary for a stock car.
I removed my skip-shift (CAGS/CARS) by simply toggling the switch. I also disabled VATS (anti-theft), because my key doesn't always make contact with the ignition (old, etc.). Then EGR was disabled, because my aftermarket cam provides a natural exhaust reversion, and my EGR valve is old and sticks somewhat anyway.
Next, I had to tune for my 42# Delphi fuel injectors. They require longer offsets than the stock injectors.
I redid my spark timing tables, increasing advance at idle, and graduating up the main tables until the new torque peak (around 4000-4500 according to Desktop Dyno), rather than the stock peak of 2800. Much more advance was needed in the lower-mid RPM/load sections, to accomodate the lower VE of the engine due to significant valve overlap. I upped the WOT timing advance as well, peaking it at around 4000 RPM. Lastly, I upped the closed TPS advance, especially at idle.
I am running open loop only, using my wideband to monitor and tune the fueling. This works best with bigger cams, since the factory narrow-band O2 sensors are too slow and ineffecient to control the fueling very well.
I leaned out the fuel mixture when in open loop, to increase MPG. I used VEmaster while in speed density mode to calibrate my VE tables. I also leaned out the AFR at WOT, also reorienting where it began getting richer/leaner; coming from richer than 13.0 until just before the torque peak at ~4500 RPM, leveling there until just before the power peak at ~6300 RPM, then getting richer again.
And I fine-tuned the transient fueling tables to get great throttle response and get rid of exhaust popping!
Still being updated!
Now Enjoy Yours!
I hope this has been a help to you! Be sure to visit my free tips page or see my inexpensive tuning service. Use the contact form to get in touch with me!
1993 Jeep Wrangler (LT1)
Just wanted to let you know I put that new chip in and you nailed it!!!
I have had chips made in the past by others, and I wanted to let you know you are the best one to do programming, you not only know what you are doing, the customer support afterwards is AMAZING!!!!!!!
Benton City, WA
First off, excellent job with the write-up! It has no doubt helped a great deal thus far... Thank you very much for your help!
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Do you need a good tune, but cannot afford the down-time of mailing your PCM to me? Do you not have any interest in long-term tuning where you would need to buy your own equipment and tuning software? I can loan you one of my tuning kits to allow me to fine-tune your PCM to match your individual setup, without you needing to send me your PCM. No more downtime, and a fully tuned vehicle! Check the link above for details and pricing!
Buy Tips as Printable PDF
You can now have the same tuning tips on my website in a handy, printable PDF format, for easy offline reference (over 20 full pages!).
After payment, the 20+ page printable PDF of these free online tips will be emailed to you.
Ordering a Tune
Simply signup as a customer and then order a PCM tune! If you still have any questions after reading this, then use the form to contact me!
If you decide you like the idea of tuning on your own, visit TunerCat and purchase the C.A.T.S. Tuner software to get started ($69.95). For working on your '94 or '95 LT1 PCM, you'll also need the $EE definition file ($19.95).
Then just get yourself an OBDI ALDL cable and compatible computer, and you're ready! Use my free "Tips" page or buy the PDF version for a small fee, and get started!
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